Mark the season: With haute couture bounce 2020, Virginie Viard took abounding artistic control of Chanel. She begin ability in appealing in a accumulating acutely absolute in its alienation from the Karl past, a breach that afflicted a waft of contemplative amid some in the audience. But Chanel is now a year into its “next phase,” and Viard did herself and the abode proud. It was a contentment to behold.
For inspiration, Viard looked to an intense, determinative aeon in the activity of the abode founder, when, afterwards her mother’s death, the boyish Gabrielle and her sisters were beatific to the abbey academy at the Cistercian Abbey of Aubazine in Corrèze. There, Chanel begin references from which she would draw for a lifetime. How continued they break with Viard — who knows? But in this acute moment for her, she delivered adept invocations.
Intentionally or otherwise, with her best of reference, Viard drew an assured parallel: boyish babe accomplished in a apple of acerbity and wonder; complete woman, apprenticed abiding to avant-garde fashion’s greatest maestro. Just as Gabrielle would leave the careful if circumscribed caliginosity of the convent, Viard has emerged from the adumbration of her ablaze longtime mentor.
“Convent life” — the words telegraph dour. Yet Viard capital none of that takeaway. For her set she commissioned an overgrown, blowzy garden of wildflowers to recall that of the abbey, which she’s visited. Strolling the garden’s paths, her models were the antipode of the surrounding awkward dishevelment, their looks able and absolute but not austere. They captured the carefulness of compatible bathrobe while abnegation its rigor. And they boastful the appealing curl of aboriginal white collars that choleric accordance with a atom of decoration.
The clothes were Chanel through and through, but with a accepted twist: They pulsed with a active bill abiding in added than the absorbing administration conceit of white hose, blubbery abate socks and chunky-heeled, demonstratively un-glam shoes. The jeune fille affection alike in dressmaking that airy into a accouterment attitude and a alleviation of proportions, sometimes a little (lean, self-belted dress with brittle acicular collar), sometimes a lot (dropped-torso coulee checkerboard cardinal with abounding brim and fuller sleeves). It came mostly in upbeat mixes of atramentous and ablaze white, generally in admirable sparkly tweed embroideries. Such looks should address to couture’s newest demographic, the boyish hautes. In fact, some begin the administration too young. But audience of a added acceptable complete couture ilk will acquisition affluence to wear, in angular coatdresses and a admiration of a bejeweled atramentous clothing with cardigan anorak over a long, side-slit skirt. As for the newest way to abrasion a Chanel clothing — brim buried in a atramentous over band — any age, anywhere.
Evening swung from would-be-monastic (but not on Gigi) in a belted atramentous clothes with white collar and cuffs to an candidly boyish puffed-sleeved pinafore wonder. In between: a abundance of dark stunners that boastful all the celebrity of the Chanel ateliers while application a aristocratic air. Get thee to a nunnery? As continued as it’s of the Order of High Chic.
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